Week in Reviews

"James Syhabout is doing more to create an interesting dining scene in Oakland than just about any other chef," says Bauer in his review of Box and Bells, where the menu "doesn't necessarily break new ground as it did at Commis, but it's satisfying." Of particular note: the "refined" lobster cream orzo, "delicious" mussels tikka masala, and "surprising and creative" fried chicken with raw-oyster mayonnaise. "Efficient and well-trained" service also charms. "While there are a few clunkers on the menu, there is plenty to keep people coming back...Syhabout is on a roll with his restaurant empire." 2.5 stars. [Chron]