Week in Reviews

The parade of raves for Berkeley's Iyasare continues with Bauer, who finds himself "lifted to euphoria" by Sho Kamio's food, like "indescribably good" sake-steamed clams, beet-cured trout "as appealing to the sight as to the taste," and an uni risotto with "flavors that meld and never compete." Service is "expert" and "never feels rushed," allowing the purity of the food to come through. "In his own kitchen, serving far fewer diners, it's clear that [Kamio]'s loosening the restraints of a larger kitchen and cooking with renewed passion." Three stars. [Chron]