LaBan: Volver Serves Up 'Gastrono-Me!-Me!-Me!'

Craig LaBan has weighed in on Volver, conferring a mere two bells on Jose Garces' Kimmel Center splurge. He describes the meal as a "four-hour marathon of culinary indulgence":

One that would [...] test my withering patience for egocentric cooking that, ultimately, didn't add much depth to the city's culinary conversation.

Highlights of the review (which included several dishes that would be "three-bell-plus material" if he could get them a la carte) include a phone charger served on a silver platter and LaBan's nomination for "the molten chocolate cake of this generation."